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Editor's Letter: Black Panther, xSandy's Hair Shop Closure & The Support Of The Black Community

So last week I said that I was planning to write a spoiler free editor’s letter all about Black Panther. I thought I would discuss how Ryan Coogler brings black feminism to the fore - tackling beauty standards by having a dark skinned women as the love interest, or discuss how all the black women in the movie have natural hair and the only time we see a black woman with a European hairstyle is when she is in disguise, but takes off her wig to become her authentic true warrior self. Or how a young black woman is the smartest person in her nation and has used technology to make her country the most advanced nation on Earth. Without a shadow of a doubt, Ryan Coogler has created complete and nuanced female characters who will spark conversation in black feminist circles and give some white feminists no choice but to start acknowledging the importance of different female representation.

What Black Panther has done is once again highlight the community spirit of the black Britons and black people all over the world. Many of us have held screenings in order to make sure the film is a box office hit and that head honchos in the film industry leave behind the notion that films with black casts and that are rooted in black culture fail to make an imprint on the UK box office. 

Words fail me in describing how it felt to be a room full of black people who roared in laughter when Shuri said: “don’t scare me, coloniser,” or when the entire auditorium chuckled when Michael B Jordan said “hey Aunty.” Or how we all clapped in applause when Daniel Kaluuya appeared on screen for the first time. I looked back at the audience and seeing the silhouettes of black men and women, I felt proud that we had all come together because we recognised the significance of the film and how buying tickets will push more production companies to create films that centre our experience. When you hear so many black people saying that they intend to see the film multiple times, you know that this is more than entertainment, the community recognises the weight of our pound. 

However, this made me think about the unfortunate closure of xSandys hair shop in Peckham - the first black owned hair shop in the area - and her belief that her shop had shut due to a lack of support by the black community. While I feel for her, I have to say to single out the lack of support by the black community as the sole reason that any business would fail is a disheartening and dangerous rhetoric. 

xSandy's shop

There are many reasons why the closure of this business may have occurred. Peckham is becoming increasingly white due to gentrification, leading to less potential customers. Someone like myself may prefer to order her hair products online, or you may have developed a haircare routine but xSandys doesn’t stock the products you need. Furthermore, the culture of DIY hair treatments courtesy of Youtube has enabled black women to make their own products from household items, combined with shea butters and oils, which are usually bought when someone we know goes back home. There are a number of reasons why this shop could have closed, but I personally don’t believe dividing our community with the message that we aren’t supportive isn’t the way to go. 

Furthermore, what does it say to xSandys customers that did give her 110% support and those who are keeping her Lewisham shop and online shopping destination afloat? I was in two minds on if I should speak on this subject, but we have to be able to have these conversations and hold each other to account. With many of us taking the plunge into starting businesses, I think we also need to let go of the word “support”. We aren’t charities and just because we may be of the same skin tone, it doesn’t necessarily mean that we have a right to each other’s hard earned cash when we start our new ventures. 

While I don’t have the perfect business or business model, I know that if my business gets to a point where things are looking bleak, it is my responsibility to first pick apart my business and ask myself if there is anything I can improve upon.  No doubt, a lack of custom played a part in the shop’s departure, but the success or failure of a business is never down to one single reason and business owners must have honest conversations with themselves before they begin to alienate their potential customer base. 

As someone whose business is beginning to get off the ground due to the financial backing of black women and as a black woman who tries to use her pound to support other black businesses, I believe more than ever that many of us are going out of our way to support one another. So if you haven’t heard of xSandys and like the idea of buying your hair and beauty products from a black owned business, then have a browse of her online store. All of that said, if you are a business owner, a black business owner, do not feel entitled to the pounds of other black Britons. It is unhelpful to keep telling the community that they are unsupportive to black owned business ventures and that we only part with our cash when companies are white owned - not only is it a harmful narrative, it's a false one.